Troubleshooting Tips

This section lists troubleshooting tips and pointers. To skip directly to a certain section of the page, use the links in the sidebar to the right.

Do you have trouble establishing a vacuum on the glass?

Most of this information is covered in the Operations Manual and appears in a flow chart on page 56. Look to the Operations Manual for additional detail.

  • Check your bucket by turning the vacuum adjustment valve all the way in and crimping the hoses where they lead out of the slurry container. The vacuum gauge should climb from 0" to at least 24" and hold steady. If so, your slurry container is good and the problem lies either in the hoses or at the polisher/finer.

  • Crimp the end of the hose where the white quick coupling is located. This hose is the suction hose. When crimped your vacuum should also climb from 0" to 24". If this does not occur it indicates your hose is cut or damaged.

  • Check the PN 8847 Aspirator Assembly for cracks.

  • All hoses must be firmly connected to prevent vacuum leaks.

  • Check all fittings and gauges to make sure they are not damaged.

  • The shroud seal should be removed from the machine and rinsed with water on a daily basis to allow it to retain its original shape. If the seal is left in the shroud for any extended period of time, it will lose its ability to maintain a strong vacuum on the glass.

  • Replace shroud seal as needed depending on system use and seals condition.

  • Make sure there are no cracks or missing feet on the shroud itself.

  • Check the vacuum release valve and grommet. The grommet can wear from repeated use or may not be completely closed and letting air into the loop.

  • Check your quick connect fitting for clogs; felt from the pad tends to build up over time. To unclog, unscrew fitting and remove any felt that has built up.

Are you losing vacuum after you release the retraction lever?

This is normally caused by a worn Drive Shaft Seal (PN 8872). An air leak occurs between the drive shaft and the quill shaft. If this seal is worn it will result in a loss of vacuum when the retraction handle is released or the motor is switched on. A worn seal will appear "out of round" and will have traces of white slurry opposite of where the clamp is placed.

  • You must grease and inspect drive shaft seal after every 8 hours of running use.

Do you have trouble polishing over curves?

Page 27 of the scratch removal Operations Manual lists a number of techniques for negotiating the curves in glass including:

  • Using a new shroud seal.

  • Raising the shroud seal by placing a length of wire in the channel under the seal.

  • Increasing the vacuum setting on the bucket to provide more suction against the glass.

  • Decreasing the amperage setting by reducing the amount of spring pressure.

  • Riding the clutch by applying light pressure on the retraction lever.

  • Applying pressure to the machine to allow more consistent vacuum. (This is the only case when you ever want to apply pressure to the machine.)

  • Use the PN 8839 Edge Shroud. The smaller shroud will allow you to traverse a steeper curve. The flat side of the shroud should be the trailing edge.

  • Use the PN 8911 Domed Wheel instead of the PN 8912 Flat Wheel. The domed wheel has a smaller footprint on the glass and will traverse a curve easier.

  • Keep your hands low on the machine to reduce "tipping" of the polisher. The higher you place your hands on the machine the more you are tipping the machine versus sliding the machine on the glass.

  • Work in one direction, for example right to left not back and forth. Most people find it easier to only move the polisher in one direction when working on steeper curves. We recommend starting on the outer edge (on windshields) and working towards the center of the windshield.

Do you find it takes longer to get out a scratch after several hours of polishing?

As the polishing slurry gets hot, it is less efficient in removing glass. We have found that 80% of the heat in the bucket is from the pump, not the polishing process. The pump gets very hot after running for extended periods of time and should be shut off when not in use.

Do not mistake the effectiveness of the slurry being worn out when it is hot! The polishing compound has been found to last for 40 hours of actual polishing. If you are changing the compound more than this you may be mistaking overheating for wear.

  • Keep the lid of the slurry container ajar to dissipate heat. The slurry container lid does not need to be sealed; the vacuum is created by the flow of the slurry.

  • Lift the cover and pump from the slurry container and place in a second container pre-mixed with slurry. Use the second container while the first cools down.

  • Place your slurry container in a larger container of water or ice (like a cooler) to remove heat from the bucket.

  • Check the level of the slurry in the container. If you have spilled a lot of slurry, you have less slurry to absorb the heat.

  • If the top of the pump is showing, the level is too low and you should mix a new batch of slurry.

Pointers for getting peak performance out of your system.
  • It is very important that your shroud is set at the appropriate height. If you have it set too high you will not pull any amperage because your pad will not touch the glass. If you have it set to low you will most likely bounce off the glass because there is too much pressure and excessive amperage.

  • Use the height adjustment gauge provided to insure you start each removal at the appropriate height.

  • When your system is running on the glass with your clutch engaged your amperage should read between 6 and 11 amps. Optimal range is 9-11 amps!

  • Amperage is adjustable with the set screw on the top side of the clutch.

  • It is very important to scuff up your dome and flat pads approximately every other scratch. This will allow you to remove the scratch much faster.

  • We recommend using a wood file or rasp to scuff up your pads. These are available at your local hardware store.

  • Remove pad from shroud then use file to scuff and reshape the pad. If filing is not done on a regular basis your pad will become hardened with slurry and will not be effective.

GLASS RESTORATION

Our restoration service includes a process by which the scratch is ground out of the glass, and then polished to a factory quality finish.

Contractor Services

We have since expanded our services to focus more on surface restoration of various substrates, including glass restoration and much more.

Bird Control

We have expanded our restoration service to include other services, such as granite restoration, window frame repairs, and more.

CONSULTATION

We help determine the causes, prevention and possible liability for glass replacement or its restoration.

Training

Our seminars cover a wide variety of topics to include: Safety precautions during the restoration process, customer expectations, and more.